All About Wool Coating Fabric
If this is the year you have decided to try sewing a coat, you have probably started looking at wool coating fabrics. Don't be intimidated by these fabrics, LA Finch has all the information you need to know for a successful fabric choice.
What is wool coating?
Wool coating is typically a dense, woven fabric. The word "coating" is used to show that it is thick enough for outerwear, instead of being a suiting weight that would not stand up to exterior temperatures.
Wool coating comes in a variety of weights and often in blends. When wool is blended with nylon or polyester, it is generally to increase strength and keep the overall cost of the fabric lower than 100% wool.
Wool Coating Weights
Within the coating category, you may find a range from lightweight to heavyweight.
Top Left, Top Right, Bottom Left, Bottom Right
Lightweight wool coatings (above) can be used for more drapey unlined shackets, vests, and skirts (use a lining).
Top Left, Top Right, Bottom Left, Bottom Right
Midweight wool coatings (above) can be used for more structured shackets, vests and jackets.
Heavyweight wool coating (above) should be reserved for winter coats and capes (with lining).
How to Wash Wool Coating
Wool coating is dry clean or spot clean only. Some wool fabric will shrink when it is steamed during the pressing process. Check a swatch to see if shrinkage occurs. If so, you may steam the entire cut of fabric or hang it in a steamy bathroom. These processes will "pre-shrink" the fabric, similar to pre-washing.
Here is a discussion on the Threads Magazine forum about other methods for pre-shrinking wool.
How to Cut and Prepare Wool Coating
Use a sharp rotary cutter or shears for cutting wool coating. It is typically easy to cut and prepare for sewing.
Test different interfacings with your scraps to see how much body you will need to add. Certain wool coatings will be so thick that they do not need much reinforcement.
How to Sew Wool Coating
Use a heavy needle, appropriate to the weight of the coating. If you find you are sewing many layers at once, you may want to consider a walking foot to evenly feed them.
If this is your first time sewing a coat, choose a pattern with simple lines and features. You will build your skills and your confidence at the same time (see below for pattern recommendations).
Wool teddy French terry coat by 110 Creations
How to Care for a Handmade Wool Coat
Wool coating can withstand the elements when properly constructed into a coat or jacket, but it is important to check your finished items regularly for damage. Make repairs as needed to extend the life of your garment. You may also want to invest in a cedar chest to store off-season wool items. Cedar repels moths and bugs.
Conclusion
Wool is an amazing fabric that resists odor, traps warmth, and makes an ideal coating choice. LA Finch Fabric has stocked a great range of wool coatings for 2024, you can check them all out here.
Recommended patterns for Wool Coating
Coats (size inclusive)
Shackets (size inclusive)
Vests
Style Arc Joy Vest (lined)
Just Patterns Veronica Vest (lined)